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This page is a short one about my experiences with installing an FLX-210. There's already a solid article
online about installing the fan, so I won't duplicate the effort here.
The links below will get you to Flex-a-lite's site (the maker of the fan); Summit Racing (great online prices); and
a how-to-install article that covers the FLX-675 which is a close cousin to the FLX-210.
I had a bit different of an experience than the -675 installer, so be sure to read my notes as well.
Personal Experience Notes:
- Like is said in the above install article, the bolts holding on the fan clutch are actually studs. Don't forget that...
You'll want to have some washers in your toolbox before you pull the fan and then remember. :)
- The -675 install above talks about mediocre brackets and having to buy spacers in order to get things to fit
right. The brackets that came with my fan were solid plastic angles that form fit the fan and the overall
install quite well.
- By triming some length off of the included mounting brackets, I was able to use the mounting holes and bolts
for the original shroud. The brackets are easily cut with a hacksaw.
- The above article talks about the fan costing US $350 and seemingly that was just because it was stamped as
a Tacoma specific fan. I paid $228 shipped from Summit, and that included the new brackets that fit very well.
- The spade and ring crimps along with a 3-Way connector that come with the kit are for 18 gauge wire. An inline fuse is
pre-connected to a run of 14 gauge wire and an included spool of hook-up wire is 16 gauge. The spade and rings are okay
to use, but the 3-way splice is "iffy". If you think you'll use the 3-Way (for an A/C hookup), you might either want to
solder up a simple Y harness before hand, or go out and get a 16 gauge (at least) 3-Way crimp.
- The included ring crimps are CHEAP. They have a tendency to twist apart as you torque a bolt down on them.
You might want to get better ones, or just be aware that they'll be giving you trouble.
- There are two runs of +12 to the control box, one is fused, the other isn't. If you choose to have the fan run whether
the ignition is on or not, then there's no need to run two separate runs to the battery. Just hook these two together with
a soldered Y cable, or use another 3-Way connector.
- When you disconnect the fan clutch from the pulley on the engine, you'll have a hard time getting to the nuts on the
"bottom" side of the pulley. You can make this easier if you loosen the two nuts on "top", then just "blip" the starter
to spin the engine so that the nuts that were on the bottom come around to the top. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE START!
Performance
Wahoo!
A mechanical fan on an engine provides a far amount of extra mass at a bad spot - right at the prime end of the
drivetrain. As well, the blades cutting through the air cause quite a bit of drag.
When you jam the throttle, that's just more stuff that has to get moving before you feel any additional power
at the rear wheels. Removing that mass, and the subsequent drag, improves low-end torque and overall throttle
response.
Is it a noticable difference? Yeup.
Was it worth it? Dang Yeup!
Quick Pics
| Before... |
These are fun |
Left side shroud bolts |
Right side shroud bolts |
| Fan's Gone! |
Control Box |
... After! |
Bad fan! BAAAAD FAN! |
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